You have probably seen the label. “Vegan leather.” It is on high street bags, on luxury shelves, on fast fashion rails. It sounds responsible. It sounds like a choice you can feel good about.
But here is the truth that the fashion industry rarely tells you: not all vegan leather is the same. And some of it is, frankly, worse for the planet than the animal leather it replaces.
At Coneli, we believe you deserve to know exactly what you are buying. So let us talk about it — honestly.
The Problem with Most “Vegan Leather”
The majority of vegan leather sold today is made from either PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or PU (polyurethane) — both of which are plastics. These materials are petroleum-derived, non-biodegradable, and shed microplastics over time as they wear and break down.
PVC is particularly problematic. Its production involves toxic chemicals including phthalates and dioxins — carcinogens that harm the workers who make it and the ecosystems it eventually enters. It does not biodegrade. It does not break down cleanly. It persists.
PU leather is somewhat less toxic in production, but it is still plastic. Still petroleum. Still a material that will outlast the bag it was made into by decades, sitting in landfill long after the trend has passed.
This is what greenwashing looks like in fashion. A “vegan” label that tells you nothing about the environmental cost of what you are actually buying.
What Plant-Based Leather Actually Means
Plant-based leather is a different category entirely. These are materials derived from natural, renewable sources — cactus, corn, apples, olives, mushrooms — that are processed into flexible, durable alternatives to both animal leather and petroleum plastics.
The best plant-based leathers on the market today carry at least 65% biobased content — meaning the majority of the material comes from plants, not fossil fuels. USDA Certified Biobased is the standard to look for. It is independently verified, transparent, and meaningful.
At Coneli, every bag we make meets this standard. Our cactus leather (Desserto®), our corn leather, and our olive leather are all USDA Certified Biobased with a minimum of 65% plant-based content. We list our materials clearly on every product, because we believe transparency is the baseline — not a marketing feature.
How to Read a “Vegan Leather” Label
Next time you see a vegan leather bag, ask these four questions:
1. What is it made from?
If the brand cannot tell you the specific material — not just “vegan leather” or “faux leather” — that is a red flag. Transparency about materials is a sign of a brand with nothing to hide.
2. Does it contain PVC or PU?
If yes, understand what that means: you are buying plastic. It may be cruelty-free, but it is not necessarily eco-friendly.
3. Is it certified?
Look for USDA Certified Biobased, Global Recycled Standard (GRS), or similar independent certifications. Marketing claims are easy to make. Certifications require verification.
4. How long will it last?
A sustainable bag is one you keep for years. A well-made plant-based leather bag that lasts a decade is infinitely more sustainable than a cheap “vegan” alternative that falls apart in eighteen months and goes straight to landfill.
What We Choose — and Why
When we launched Coneli, we made a decision that has shaped every collection since: we would only use plant-based materials with independently verified biobased content. Not because it is easy — it is not, and it costs more — but because we started this brand to build something we could stand behind completely.
We use Desserto® cactus leather for its exceptional quality and its remarkable environmental credentials. We use corn leather for its soft, luxurious feel. We use olive leather to push boundaries and explore what plant-based innovation can become.
Each material is chosen not just for how it looks and feels, but for what it represents: a future where fashion does not cost the earth.
The Bottom Line
Vegan leather is not automatically sustainable. But plant-based leather — the real kind, certified and transparent — can be. The difference lies in what the brand is willing to tell you.
We will always tell you.